Setting up a false bottom tank

This how-to shows how I set up my 80gal 5 foot tank for red eyed tree frogs. What makes this how-to different is the inclusion of how to make a safe container for your pump so that is is easily accessible. From past experience I know if you do not make your pump accessible for maintenance you will be in big trouble and you will end up breaking down your tank for technical faults. NOTE: no pump will last forever.
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1. Tube pillars
The false bottom needs to be high enough, so that your pump can sit fully submerged. For this tank I wanted a space of 6-8 cm.
Cut lengths of drainage pipes of a range of 6-8cm. This is so you can get a gradient in the bottom to allow the water to drain. Drill holes in the tubes so that water can move freely through. This stops stagnant water forming. Arrange the tubes equally spaced in the tank where the land with sit. Leave a gap for the pond.
Tubes cut to length and drilled

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Tubes spaces in bottom of tank

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2. Eggcrate base
To create the basic landscape of your tank, use eggcrate.
This is strong, easy to cut and shape and will allow for drainage.
Cut pieces of eggcrate and lay them on your pillars to create higher
land areas and a pond. Make sure there is a slight slope to your land areas.
Tie the eggcrate together with stainless steel wire. |
Eggcrate landscape

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Left side of tank

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Middle of tank

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Right side of tank

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With the eggcrate make a box hole for your pump.
Make sure the pump filly fits below the eggcrate level.
Line the sides of the hole with crate, so that your frogs cannot access the space under the egg crate. |
Box for pump

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3. Mesh lining
Cover the eggcrate with a layer of mesh
Use stainless steel fine mesh. You do not want the mesh to rust. Also this layer will help filter the water and should block anything but very fine particles.
You will need to sculpt the mesh around your landscape. Do do this you will probably need several pieces of different shapes. make sure to line your pump hole with mesh.
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Fine Mesh

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Mesh covering

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Mesh around pond

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Mesh lining hole

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4. Cork bark backing
Cover the back of you tank with flattened cork bark. This gives an attractive natural feel to the tank. Cork bark will not rot easily when wet and can hold plants.
Cut the flat cork bark to shape then attach to the back of your tank with silicone sealant. This will take 24 hours to dry. You will probably need to use something heavy to keep it in place whilst setting.
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5. Pump cover
You will want to make an easily accessible cover for your pump and also create a barrier to stop soil and plants falling into the hole.
First you want a spacer that will sit in the hole and stop soil entering the water. then a perspex box that will cover the pump and hose. This needs to reach the glass lip around the edge of the tank.
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Pump hole

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Corner hole

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Spacer

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Perspex cover

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Spacer
Make a right angled piece of perspex about 7cm high. Then attach a right angled piece of cork bark around this. leaving a gap below for the spacer to fit into the hole and a space above for the cover to sit on. The bark will hold the spacer onto the lip of the hole, hold the soil back and create a lip for the cover to sit on.
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Spacer inside

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Spacer outside

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Spacer in hole, top view

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Spacer in hole, side view

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Cover
Create right angled piece of Perspex that fits around the spacer. Make this tall enough to reach the lip in the tank. In this tank, one side needed to be 3mm taller than the other because of the overlap from the rim. Then add a top piece to make sure there is no space to enter cover.
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Perspex cover

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Cover in hole, top view

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Cover in hole, side view

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6. Water fall and pond
Install your waterfall. I use a ready made waterfall with a fogger/ This adds rolling fog down your stream. Add stones to fill your pond. Tree frogs cannot swim, so make sure the water is not too deep. Then edge your pond with large stones or wood to create a landscape.
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Waterfall and pond

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7. Filter layers
So that the water and waste is properly filtered, you need to add layers of filter material.
Start with a layer of moss all over your mesh. Then add a layer of clay balls. Then add another layer of moss on top.
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Moss layer, left side

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Moss layer, right side

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Clay balls, left side

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Clay balls, right side

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8. Soil
Then add a layer of soil to the tank ready for planting. I used a mix of
coconut fibre substrate and orchid potting soil. Make sure any soil mixes you use do not contain any herbicides, pesticides or growing chemicals that could be harmful to your frogs.
(sorry I have no Pictures here).
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8. Plants
Lastly add your plants. You will want a mixture of plants your frogs can hide in, creepers, foliage, ferns and moss. You may also like to add some orchids for decoration. Then add branches and vines to give plenty of spots for your frogs to hang out on.
Some of the plants I've used include:
Vriesea gigantea nova
Vriesea hieroglyphica
Philodendron scandens
Creeping Fig -
Ficus pumila 'sunny white'
Jointed Rush -
Juncus
Ficus Colombia
Neoregelia Luca
Woodstream Orchid -
Encyclia brassavolae
Phalaenopsis Mini
A really great place to get vivarium plant and supplies in the uk is Dartfrog.co.uk

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8. Introduce your frogs
When you have your lighting, temperature and humidity all right you can introduce your frogs.... Here are my Bumblee Dart Frogs



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